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A Beginner's Guide To Using A Sex Doll: Everything You Need To Know
Maybe you've just bought your first doll, or maybe you're on the verge of doing so. Most new owners get a bout of mild panic at certain point: 35 kg of silicone human out of the package in the living space, and you standing there wondering now what? The answer to that question is what follows here. You will not find filler or presumptions that you have done this before here, just hands-on guidance on what you will genuinely need in your first week and how to sidestep costly slip-ups in your first month. Read it once before she arrives and once more after she arrives, as the second read will make significantly more sense and you will catch things you skipped over the first time.
Once she's out of the box, shifting her about becomes significantly harder, so a handful of jobs are worth doing before the box is even open. "Somewhere in the bedroom" isn't an answer, so pick a real place: a wardrobe, a corner, or a storage package. The last thing you would like is to be improvising storage at 11 p.m. with a bare doll in your arms, as dolls are weighty and unwieldy. Clear the space she'll rest on, be it a bed, floor, or carry case, and be sure it is clean and free of anything that could transfer dye, since dark blankets, poorly dyed fabrics, and anything that might bleed colour are a risk. If you've got carpet, put something smooth under her. On a low bed, examine it will not sink under her pressure in time.
Have everything you need ready before she arrives:
1. Cornflour or baby powder (for TPE dolls)
2. A blow-dryer (for softening joints)
3. A clean, pale cloth (for the cloth test)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a regular hairbrush)
5. Drying supports (for the orifice areas)
6. Mineral oil designed for TPE (where relevant)
7. A soft cosmetic brush (for powdering)
None of this costs much, but all of it matters. Maybe £20 pays for the complete kit, and it is the distinction among a doll that holds its condition and one that does not. Go with care opening the box as opposed to tearing into it, and if it is damaged, picture it first, as that is your sole protection for a guarantee claim. When it is open, do a quick inspection: inspect for rips in the armpits and groin, verify all fingers are undamaged, and verify the head sculpt matches what you ordered. Message the vendor before you do anything else if something's wrong, and image it straight away, since a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
The aspect that takes practically every new buyer by surprise comes next: she will feel rigid. The joints are tight from the factory, which is perfectly standard and does not mean any part is broken. The joints need limbering up before you can pose her, and the technique is easy. Take a blow-dryer on a medium setting, not hot, to soften the TPE on each joint, then steadily move each joint through its complete range of movement, working through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. Never force anything, and if a joint will not move, warm it more. Give this a complete hour. It seems excessive, but it is what separates a doll you will genuinely pose from one that ends up locked in a single position as you gave up.
She's heavier than she looks, and this surprises everyone. 35 kg does not seem that weighty until you're lifting her from a low position and the pressure is concentrated in the wrong places, so use proper lifting technique: squat down and lift with your legs as opposed to your back. Bear hug her where possible, gripping under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, as the closer she is to your centre of balance, the less load you will feel. As TPE and silicone both hold body warmth fairly well, she's warmer than you anticipate, and she'll feel less plastic than you probably expected the first time you contact her sensibly. People call their dolls lifelike mainly as the cloth truly reacts when touched in a method that takes you by surprise, not as of movement or AI.
Regular powdering is essential, as TPE gets clammy with time, especially in warm conditions or after cleaning, and a fine dusting of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft powder brush holds the skin even and dust-free, so do it after each cleansing session. Occasional oiling is also needed, as TPE sheds oil in time, and a compact amount of mineral oil formulated especially for TPE dolls every couple of months holds the fabric soft and prevents drying out, even though an excess of oil makes the skin slippery and gathers collect dust sooner than dehydrated skin does, so do not use too much.
Cleansing is a process as opposed to a one-off. After use:
1. Take out any inserts and wash them separately
2. Clean the orifice areas using warm water and gentle cleanser
3. Dry everything totally with drying sticks (between 15 and 20 minutes)
4. Dust the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Put her away attentively
Do not treat this as optional, since if you skip it you will get mould building up inside her in as little as a few weeks. Most buyers anticipate it to be quicker, but the complete process takes more or less 45 minutes, and that is the biggest reason veteran owners switch to detachable inserts, which cut that time just about in half.
Novice owners make their biggest misstep here, as they do not think about storage until it is a difficulty. Most veteran owners hang their dolls, using a heavy-duty hanging hook rated for at least 60 kg with a dedicated loop, which holds her in one position without putting stress on the joints. Storing her lying down works too, but be careful: flat surfaces are fine and rough ones aren't, and leaving her on her back for long periods can flatten the buttocks or breasts, so vary the position now and then. UV damages both TPE and silicone and fades wigs and painted details fast, so never leave her in direct sun, and keep her in a cabinet or a covered storage container.
Most of the many opinions the internet has about owning a doll are mistaken or exaggerated. She's not made of glass, so there's no need to be "careful" in the sense of fussing over her: yes, she's hefty and her joints need attention, but she's also designed to be used. There's no need to be ashamed, since millions of folk own sex dolls, the market has expanded hugely in the past decade, and the shame has diminished fast, so if you've chosen to own one, that is a private choice and not a moral failing.
You needn't treat her like a person either. Building intricate characters and personalities for their dolls is element of the appeal for many owners, which is great, but you do not have to, and a doll for bodily pleasure and companionship without the roleplay is a totally valid way to use one. Get the day-to-day side right and the rest is a matter of taste, since nobody else has a say on how you use something you purchased.
Every owner develops their own procedure, and mine for what that is worth is uncomplicated. Free up the joints ahead of every session, not a solid hour from the first time but just a couple of minutes to be sure nothing is inflexible, and powder at the end of every clean without exception. Keep a replacement wig nearby, as synthetic hair takes longer to dry out than you'd expect and you do not wish to be waiting, run the material test on any new clothes even if you've used the same brand before, and keep her correctly every time. It is not difficult, just the procedure that maintains your doll in top condition for many years as opposed to months.
Your first month will teach you the majority of what you must know, and the missteps you make early tend to be minor ones provided you're careful. The things that go wrong later are the costly ones, and they practically always come down to something skipped in the early weeks. Examples include a joint limbered up too aggressively, a fabric tested on the doll rather than a cloth, and a storage method that appeared fine until the load sunk into it. Go slowly at the beginning and the rest looks after itself.
You'll also need to know what to do when something eventually goes wrong, since it will. A tear in the armpit, a loose joint, a blemish that will not come out. Your instinct will be to panic and assume the doll is wrecked, but practically everything short of a broken frame is fixable if you spot it early. Compact splits are handled by TPE patch kits, which cost hardly anything. Loose joints can be replaced or tightened. Marks are the one thing that does not come out, this is why the cloth check matters so much. Find out which issues are fixable and stop stressing about the ones that aren't.
Serious purchases deserve respect, and a doll is one, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." Limber up the joints, powder her on a regular basis, store her correctly, and you will get years out of her, but skip those things and you will be replacing her significantly sooner than you expected. After a tough first week, it turns into routine. More info at this rosslink. Also check out special info for more.
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