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New To Sex Dolls? A Beginner's Guide To Using Yours The Right Way
So you've bought your first doll, or you're about to. Whichever it is, there's a flash of low-level panic as you unbox a 35 kg silicone human, end up standing in the middle of the living room, and ask yourself: now what? This guide is the answer to that question. You will not find fluff or presumptions that you already know here, just hands-on guidance on what you will truly need in your first week and how to dodge pricey blunders in your first month. Reading it again after she arrives makes much more sense than the first, so go through it once beforehand and once afterwards, as you will catch things you missed the first time.
Once she's out of the package, moving her around becomes much harder, so a handful of jobs are worth doing before you even open it. "Somewhere in the bedroom" isn't an answer, so pick a real area: a cupboard, a corner, or a storage package. As dolls are bulky and unwieldy, improvising storage at 11 at night with an unclothed doll in your arms is a thing you truly do not wish. Dye transfer is a real risk, so obvious the space she'll rest on, which could be a bed, floor, or storage container, and check that it is clean and free of dark blankets, low-quality fabrics, and anything else that might bleed colour. Carpet needs something smooth underneath her. On a low bed, check it will not droop under her pressure in time.
Get your kit ready before she arrives:
1. Baby powder or cornstarch (for TPE dolls)
2. A hair dryer (for limbering up joints)
3. A clean, pale cloth (for the cloth test)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a standard hairbrush)
5. Drying rods (for the orifice areas)
6. Mineral oil made for TPE (where relevant)
7. A soft powder brush (for powdering)
None of this breaks the bank, but all of it matters. For around about £20 you get the complete kit, and that is what separates a doll that stays in top condition from one that does not. Take your time opening the package instead of tearing into it, and if it is damaged, picture it first, as that is your only safeguard for a warranty case. A quick inspection comes next: inspect for splits in the armpits and groin, confirm all fingers are undamaged, and inspect the head sculpt matches what you bought. Image any concern at once and tell the supplier before you do anything else, as a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
The component that catches nearly every new buyer by surprise comes next: she will feel inflexible. Out of the factory, the joints are tight, which is totally standard and doesn't mean any part is broken. Before you can pose her, you will have to ease the joints, and the technique is uncomplicated. Soften the TPE on each joint with a hair dryer on a low setting, not hot, next carefully move each joint through its complete range of movement, working through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. If a joint will not move, warm it more, and never force anything. Give this a complete hour. That sounds like significantly, but it is the distinction among a doll you will really pose and a doll that ends up stuck in one position since you gave up.
She's heavier than she looks, and this catches everyone. Right until you lift her from a low position with the load concentrated in the wrong places, a 35 kg doll does not seem that weighty, so use good lifting technique, squatting down and lifting with your legs rather than your back. Bear hug her where possible, grabbing under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, seeing as the closer she is to your centre of mass, the less pressure you will feel. TPE and silicone both hold body warmth pretty well, so she's warmer than you expect, and the first time you feel her correctly she'll feel less plastic than you probably expected. People say their dolls feel alive mainly seeing as the cloth truly yields to touch in a way that startles you, not since of movement or AI.
You will need to powder her routinely, since TPE gets sticky in time, especially in hot weather or after cleansing, and a fine dusting of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft make-up brush maintains the finish smooth and free of dust, so do this at the end of every cleansing session. Occasional oiling is also needed, seeing as TPE sheds oil with time, and a thin coat of mineral oil made specifically for TPE dolls every three months or so maintains the cloth soft and prevents splitting, although excess oil makes the exterior slippery and collects dust faster than dry skin does, so do not use too much.
Cleansing is a process rather than a one-off. After use:
1. Pull out any inserts and wash them on their own
2. Clean the orifices using warm water and gentle cleanser
3. Dry everything well with drying supports (fifteen to twenty minutes)
4. Dust the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Put her away sensibly
This aspect isn't optional: skip it and mould will be forming inside her in a few weeks. The majority of people expect it to be quicker, but the complete process takes approximately 45 minutes, and that's the biggest reason seasoned owners switch to detachable inserts, which cut that time just about in half.
Novice owners make their biggest blunder here, as they do not think about storage until it is an issue. Hanging is best, using a heavy-duty ceiling mount rated for at least 60kg with a dedicated loop, which holds her in the same position without putting load on the joints, and this is the method most seasoned owners use. Storing her lying down works too, but be careful: even surfaces are fine and bumpy ones aren't, and leaving her on her back for a long time can flatten the buttocks or breasts, so vary the position now and then. UV damages both TPE and silicone and discolours wigs and painted details fast, so never leave her in direct sun, and keep her in a cupboard or a covered carry case.
There's no shortage of internet opinions about owning dolls, and most of them are incorrect or overblown. She's not made of glass, so there's no need to be "careful" in the sense of walking on eggshells around her: yes, she's weighty and her joints need attention, but she's also designed to be used. There's no need to be sheepish: millions of folk own sex dolls, the industry has grown tremendously in the past decade, and the shame has diminished fast, so owning one is an individual choice and not a moral failing.
Treating her like a person isn't a requirement either. Building complex characters and personas for their dolls is element of the appeal for many owners, which is great, but you do not have to, and a doll for sexual satisfaction and companionship without the roleplay is a totally valid way to use one. The day-to-day side is the only thing you genuinely need to get right, as everything else is personal taste and nobody else has a say on how you use something you've paid for.
Every owner develops their own procedure, and mine if it helps is easy. Ahead of every session, limber up the joints, not for the entire hour of the first time but for just a couple of minutes to be sure nothing is inflexible, and powder at the end of every clean no matter what. Keep a backup wig within reach, as synthetic cloth takes longer to dry off than you'd expect and you do not would like to be waiting, run the material test on any new clothing even if you've used the same brand before, and store her correctly every time. Nothing here is difficult, it's simply the regime that keeps your doll in good condition for many years on end as opposed to months.
Much of what you should know will come from your first month, and the blunders you make early tend to be minor ones provided you're careful. Difficulties that show up later are the costly ones, and they virtually always originate in something skipped in the opening weeks. Consider of a joint freed up too aggressively, a cloth tested on the doll as opposed to a cloth, or a storage arrangement that seemed fine until the pressure pressed down into it. Take it slowly at the start and the rest takes attention of itself.
Something will eventually go wrong, so there's also the question of what to do when it does. Maybe a tear in the armpit, a loose joint, or a blemish that will not come out. Panicking and assuming the doll is done for is the instinct, but nearly everything short of a broken frame is fixable if you spot it early. Patch kits for TPE cost hardly anything and deal with tiny splits. Tightening or replacing loose joints is possible. Marks will not come out, and that is why the material test makes such a difference. Find out which difficulties are fixable and stop worrying about the ones that aren't.
A doll is a major purchase and it deserves respect, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." You will get years out of her if you limber up the joints, powder her often, and put away her sensibly, but if you skip those things you will be replacing her a lot sooner than you expected. The initial week is the hardest component, and after that it becomes habit. More info at this rosslink. Also check out you can check here for more.
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